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Of sessions and singles, doubles and triples: Classifying IPAs - Marin Independent Journal

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Across the vast and fragrant landscape of IPAs, there are many distinct territories, and between them, boundaries blur. That is, it’s unclear what exactly distinguishes an IPA from a double IPA, and a double from a triple, and — if we must — a triple from a quadruple.

If you’re a beer drinker, you probably know that a double IPA, often billed as a DIPA or an imperial IPA,  is higher in alcohol than a regular IPA. And TIPAs are stronger than doubles. This spectrum extends in the other direction, too, to pale ales and session IPAs —  usually 4% alcohol-by-volume or lower.

But these categories overlap, sometimes by a wide margin. Some IPAs are substantially lower in ABV than other beers labeled as pale ales. And some single IPAs are higher in ABV than beers labeled as double IPAs.

At Pond Farm, on Fourth Street in San Rafael, co-owner Trevor Martens considers IPA designations to be just a matter of “personal opinion” without “legal definition.” That said, he roughly follows these guidelines: 5% or below is a session IPA; 5-6 percent is a pale ale; 6 to 8%, IPA; 8 to 10%, DIPA, and 10% and up, TIPA.

At Iron Springs Pub and Brewery, owner Mike Altman feels that any IPA stronger than 9% calls for a label of double IPA. Above 11.5%, he says, and all IPAs are at minimum triples.

Jonathan MacDonald, owner and brewer at Adobe Creek, follows the style guidelines of the Beer Judge Certification Program. This document, often used as a resource for beer judges in training, suggests 7.5 to 10% ABV as the appropriate window for double IPAs. It has no category for triples. American IPAs, the BJCP booklet says, should run 5.5 to 7.5%.

This would make Elysian Brewing’s Space Dust IPA a rule breaker at 8.2%. In fact, this single IPA is stronger than what many beer fanatics consider the best double IPA in the world — Pliny the Elder, Russian River’s famed DIPA of 8% ABV and an aromatic bouquet that can reduce lovers of the beer almost to tears.(Don’t even get them started on Pliny the Younger.)

Samuel Smith’s India Ale is another outlier. Widely regarded as a reflection of what the first India pale ales probably tasted like, the beer is malty, modestly hopped and just 5% ABV.

MacDonald observes that the boundaries between IPA categories are most likely to blur in the 5.5 to 6.0% zone, between pale ales and IPAs, and around 7.5% ABV, between single and double IPAs.

But, he adds, the switching point to triple IPAs seems more consistent.

“Seems like triples are always up at 10% and above,” he says.

Jeremy Marshall, brewmaster at Lagunitas, thinks single IPAs can start at 5.5%, and triples at 10.

Rob Lightner, at East Brother Beer in Richmond, also considers 10% to be the entry point for triple IPAs, and doubles, he says, ideally fall between 8 and 9%. Between 9 and 10, he adds, is a “murky” zone.

Altman sets a high bar, citing 11.5% and up as the preferred range for triple IPAs.

But it’s not just alcohol levels that define IPAs. The type of malt used and the varieties, and quantities, of hops play major roles. IPAs, to keep it simple, are hoppy. Pale ales are a little less so. Thus, a hopped-up beer of just 4.5% ABV is neither exactly an IPA nor a pale ale. In this case, “session IPA” covers both bases – hoppiness and low ABV.

A beer like Lagunitas Brewing’s Born Yesterday would seem from its 7.2% strength like an IPA, except that it has a slightly daintier hop profile than most IPAs. Thus, the beer is categorized as a pale ale – potentially a curveball for shoppers who aren’t paying attention to the ABV readings.

Style definitions are vague, and names can be misleading. So, when it comes to picking an IPA, it’s often the numbers that matter most.

Alastair Bland’s Through the Hopvine runs every week in Zest. Contact him at allybland79@gmail.com.

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